Rubinacci is a Neapolitan luxury tailoring house founded in 1932 by Gennaro Rubinacci, who opened his atelier, called the London House, on Via Filangieri in Naples. The firm is now in its third generation, operated by Mariano Rubinacci and his son Luca Rubinacci. Rubinacci is regarded as one of the most important exponents of the Neapolitan tailoring tradition, which emphasizes soft, unstructured construction, natural shoulders, and handwork.
The Neapolitan tailoring style that Rubinacci exemplifies is characterized by lightweight construction with minimal internal structure, a "shirt shoulder" that follows the natural shoulder line without padding, hand-sewn buttonholes, and a soft rolled lapel. The house employs a network of independent master tailors in Naples who execute each garment by hand. A bespoke suit from Rubinacci starts at approximately 4,500 euros and requires multiple fittings at the Naples atelier or during trunk shows.
Rubinacci also operates a ready-to-wear and accessories business under the Rubinacci and Mariano Rubinacci labels. The brand produces ties, pocket squares, casual trousers, knitwear, and outerwear, all manufactured in Italy. The ready-to-wear line reflects the same Neapolitan aesthetic as the bespoke operation, with soft shoulders and unstructured construction.
The firm operates boutiques in Naples, Milan, and London's Mayfair, and conducts regular trunk shows in cities across Europe, North America, and Asia. Luca Rubinacci has become a prominent figure in menswear media and is known for his personal style, which has helped bring attention to Neapolitan tailoring traditions among a younger generation of clients. The company remains entirely family-owned and independent.